Goodbye Munich...Hello Stuttgart!

A quick note...the last three posts were written and then uploaded when I had WiFi...and, I accidentally did it out of order. Sorry about that...

Not a whole lot happened yesterday...well, that's not entirely true, but we spent a decent ammount of time traveling by bus from Munich to a small area called Comburg, and from there to Stuttgart.  The church at Comborg was stunning for a variety of reasons. One of those reasons was the spectacular beauty inside the church. Perhaps the most beautiful of the churches we have visited so far.  I tried to take a lot of pictures, and I hope they show some of the beauty. One of the coolest things was the giant chandilier that hung above the altar. The chandilier is to represent heaven, and three times a year (Christmast Eve, New Years Eve, and Easter Vigil) they lower the chandilear in the dark and light the candles one-by-one as they say the Kyrie Elaison (spelling?)...all 48 candles. Then, they slowly raise the lit chandilear up into the cieling. I can only imagine how awesome and powerful that would be to see in person.  The other impressive thing about the church was its age. Some parts were 900 years old...230'ish years ago the US didn't exist as a country, 500'ish years ago Europeans made contact in the US, and 900'ish years ago the land that is now the US maybe had some clay Anasazi cliff dwellings in the Southwest. It's incredible to think how advanced the European societies were for one, and secondly it's incredible that these buildings are open for me to walk through.

Also at Comborg was a "principal's college"...I won't get into wonky details about education, but they train their principals in much less time, and at no cost to them (the state pays).  However, prinicpals only make a little more money than teachers, and many continue to teach a couple classes. Better or worse? I don't know? Different, and interesting though.

After Comborg it was back on the bus to Stuttgart where we'd stay for two nights. Our Munich guides told us that the architecture and beauty paled in comparrison to that of Munich...they might have been biased.  However, they also were correct...Stuttgart does lack a lot of the beauty of Munich, but it's a great city based on my limited impression from walking around for a couple hours after we arrived. They have a central green area that is surrounded by the a couple of castles and other nice looking buildings (about the only ones in Stuttgart), but the area was so awesome. Another teacher and I just sat on the steps and enjoyed a beer while we soaked in the sun and did a some people watching.  It really is a nice city.

Today we had our first "formal" day of the trip...today we met with the head of the Robert Bosch Foundation.  The Bosch company (power tools...), and Duestch Bank are two of the big sponsors...these are the folks that spend thousands of dollars on us seeing their country. Basically, this was the day that we couldn't screw anything up!  I was actually chosen to present my gift (along with a teacher from St. Louis) to Dieter Berg, the head dude, at the end of our tour of the foundation and lunch. Though it's not really an "honor", I am proud that I was chosen to give a pair of Surly pint glasses to the man!  I have video of the presentation, and of course pictures.  The lunch we had was tasty and enlightening. It was interesting to hear his reasons for supporting the TOP program, but it was equally interesting hearing his thoughts on the current economic situation in Germany (the economy is booming, unemployment under 7%), the situation in Europe (Germany essentially bailed out Greece), and the situation back at home (Do the words "debt ceiling" mean anything?  Speaking of...because of the US's position in global affairs, most all Germans we've talked to are very interested in our politics an the current debates...but, again, another post for another time...). 

In addition to paying a visit to the guy who writes the checks we also heard a presentation about Germany's "Dual Vocational School System" - as I explained earlier they track students at an early age. The dual vocational system is unlike anything we have hear, and essentially at age 16 or so students begin getting on the job training at a company, paid for almost entirely by the company, and when they're done they begin working as an employee for the company. College isn't for everyone, there's little doubt for me about that.  So, the idea that students can begin working toward skills that they'll need and use in their future at a young age so they can be prepared to work is a great idea. Sadly, nothing like that really exists here...

Lastly, we visited the Mercedes Benz museum. That...that was something! The museum itself was a work of art, and the cars inside...wow!

Anyway, it was a busy day...we'll have a nice dinner tonight and then tomorrow we go by tran to Dreseden!  That's all for now...

Day 2: School Visit, Abbey Tour...and Beer tasting!

Editor's Note: A lack of WiFi at times, busy schedules, and a desire to see Munich means that the next 3-4 updates are just getting posted now...apologies for the delay.

Today was the highlight of the trip so far.  It was our first fully "aware" day after spending a day in a jet-lag induced fog the day before.  We had to be up and on the bus at 7:30 for the drive to our first stop of the day.  We were heading a little south of Munich to visit a Realschulle...before we get there, a crash course on the German school system...reader be ware, it's quite confusing. 

All students attend the same type of school, primary school, until 4th grade.  After 4th grade the students are split into three separate and distinct tracks. Basically at the end of 4th grade teachers, with some input from parents, determine the student's educational path and ultimately their career path.  The lower or underperforming students are sent to Hauptschule until 9th grade and then they move on to a vocational school of sorts and an apprenticeship in their chosen field until they're 18 when they graduate...their chosen careers will be more manual labor, blue collar jobs.  The advantage is that from early on they receieve specialized training in these areas. The middle of the pack students enter a Realschule, which is a bit more rigorous and the high school work will also be career focused. A large majority of these students will not attend University when they graduate, though some might. These jobs will be more office based, more white collar, though some of them will go into more "advanced" blue collar fields.  The third and final track is the Gymnasium. It is the most academically rigorous and the end goal is University, assuming the student passes their comprehensive exam (Abitur) at the end of their high school years.  There are many more details that could be added, but I'll leave it at the basic description of the Hauptschule (low), Realschule (middle), and Gymnasium (high). It is an interesting setup and one that has advantages and disadvantages, but that's for another time...so...the visit...

The school visit was absolutely fantastic! We began with a roundtable style discussion with some of the teachers.  The discussion was great and for as many differences as there were, the differences were really very minor. Both German and American teachers seemed to have the same problems and concerns that they confronted on a daily basis, which was, in a way, refreshing to hear. After the discussion we were split into groups to go visit classrooms and talk to the students. 

Having done my student teaching in Prague I already had some understanding of how similar students of the same age are around the world. After teaching 8th graders for 4 years in the US, this was even more clear.  The first room my group visisted had about 10 8th graders (the others were doing other activities around the school...this was their last week before Summer break) and we had the chance to just sit and talk about school life and answer questions that we each had.  Toward the end of this first stop my group was invited to a rehersal for a school talent show. A group of students and their music teacher were practicing Strawberry Wine...I must say, they did a really great job! I have a video clip I will try and get uploaded. After the mini-concert we enjoyed some cake one of the students made and then had a 15-20 minute break...along with the rest of the school.

Then it was off to our second visit where my group visited an English class of about 25 students. Many of them spoke very good English and they peppered me and the two other teachers with questions about us, our students, and life back home.  The 40 minute conversation flew by, and again it was really great to talk with other students.  A few of them dressed in traditional Bavarian clothing for their special guests...sadly, I still haven't bought a pair of leiderhosen (spelling?). 

We then moved outside where a group of history students and their teacher had prepared a presentation about a centuries old Celtic temple they had researched and restored on the temple's original site on the school grounds. As a history teacher I was incredibly impressed by the work that was done.  Then they treated us to a short musical performance. The 5th and 6th grade choir sang a traditional Bavarian song, and then 3 8th and 9th graders first sang the German National Anthem and then followed it by an absolutely fantastic singing of our National Anthem.  I have video of that too, but I doubt the sound quality will do justice to hearing it in person.  After that it was time to say our goodbyes to the students and teachers.  There is little doubt in my mind that this stop on our tour will be one of the best...right up there with our next stop to the Weltenburg Abbey and Brewery!

We continued our drive through Bavaria, through a region that is the largest hop growing region in the world.  This was farm country, fields full of corn and hops.  If you didn't know you were in Germany you'd think that without a doubt you were somewhere in Minnesota or Wisconsin. The landscape is almost identical. Eventually we made it to the abbey, which is located right on the side of the Danube river. It was an absolutely gorgeous place, and there's little doubt as to why the monks chose this place to build their abbey. Before our tour and beer tasting it was lunch time. 

I've tried to immerse myself into the Bavarian (German) culture as best I can. One way is by drinking plenty of Dunkel (dark beer) and trying the great food.  So, with that in mind I decided to have stewed suckling pig heart and dumplings for lunch.  Yes, pig heart.  When my plate arrived, not really knowing what to expect, I was pleasantly surprised.  It looked like chunks of beef and smelled fantastic.  My eyes and nose did not lie to my taste buds, because it was great! It taste meaty (beefy, in a way) with a bit of an "irony" taste (duh...being the heart and all...). Ser gut!  Some of the people on the tour I shared it with said it tasted very similar to liver. I also tried a bit of someone's corend beef tongue. The tongue was also great and tasted very similar to...roast beef. With a stomach full of pig heart, beef tongue, and dunkels it was time for a brief tour and then our guided beer tasting.

As you might expect, both were great!  During the tasting and tour we learned that the dunkel from Weltenburg brewery was the oldest dark beer in the world! It was absolutely delicious...so much so that I picked up a 6 pack...hopefully a bottle or three will make it home with me.  Then it was back on the bus for a nap as we made our way home to the hotel for the night.  Day 2 was a success by all accounts, and I'm positive that it will rank among the best days of the trip. We have much more to do, see, and experience and I can't wait!

Day 4: Neuschwanstein

Big day today! We boarded a van (all of us, in one van...tight squeeze) for the two hour trip south to the Alps along the Austrian-German boarder to visit the castle Neuschwanstein.  About a decade ago when I visited Munich with my Summer soccer team we also made this visit, and I was eager to make it again. I have hazy memories from the first time, but all memories are good ones.  Though it was a bit of a long time to be spending in a crammed bus, once you arrive it is well worth it.

The castle is one of Germany's most popular tourisit attactions and places to visit. The castle itself was the inspiration for the Sleeping Beauty castle. There's not much to say about the castle and surrounding area, other than it really is a beautiful place.  The pictures and videos I took don't do it justice, but they will give you an idea of what we experienced.

On our way back we stopped at the "Church of the Medow"...the name didn't ring a bell, but when we got there I vaguely remembered visiting it in the past. The exteriror of the church is pretty nice, but it's the interior that is incredibly gorgeous.  Again, hopefully the picutres and videos convey some its beauty.

Back in the van and back to Munich for our last night.  For dinner we went to anthother "traditional Bavarian" restaurant for more Dunkel and pork...dinner for me was roast suckling pig (roast baby pig) with dumplings.  It was really pretty good, but not as good as the first night's pork knuckle.  Tomorrow we leave Bavaria and head to Stuttgart where we'll make a stop at a castle and teaching academy. On the road again...

Some general thoughts about the trip so far...summed up in one word: AWESOME! In a bit more detail...we have been shown around by two terriffic guides, Annette and Alexander. Alexander is like a walking encyclopedia. The knoweldge of all things German has been indespensible. We are very fortunate to have two great guides that have literally taken care of everything for us and made our trip through Bavaria nothing short of remarkable. The Goethe Institut and the guides have arranged everything. Though our days are busy, the only thing we have to do is make sure we show up on time and ready to learn and explore. Transportation is arranged, tickets purchased, reservations made, and all food and drink at our group dinners and lunches is paid for. We're treated so well, and has only added to the awesome experiences. As the trip continues I can only expect many more wonderful experiences!

Day 3: Another School Visit and A Couple of Meetings

We didn't have to be up quite as early as yesterday, and the extra couple of hours of sleep were needed and appreciated.  Today's first stop would be at a Gymnasium right in Munich. The unique aspect of this particular school is that it is an all girls school. All of the students were out of the building doing academic field trips to wrap up the year, but the principal and a couple of teachers were kind enough to stay back and discuss education with us.

Being a Gymnasium it was more academically rigorous. For example, in addition to learning English starting in 5th grade, they began to learn Latin or French in 6th grade.  They also had a history class each year, in addition to various geography/government classes...plus their host of other math, science, music, art, phy ed, and IT classes. I was very impressed with the range of subjects required, especially with the level of history and social studies they were taught. We had the chance to learn about how World War II and the Holocaust are taught in the schools as well.  They (not just this school, all of the schools in Germany) do not shy away from the subject.  They spend a large majority of both 8th and 9th grade covering WWII and the Holocaust in great depth and detail. Most students will visit a concentration camp and/or have a Holocaust survivor speak to their classes.  It's not uncommon for students to find out that their relatives played a role in the horror, and it appears that this too is something that they don't necessarily find shame in, but that they confront and address head on. Very interesting.

After our discussion we had a tour of the school. One of the distinct differences between the schools we visited and ours back home was a lack of some of the technology that we have. There were computer labs and a computer in each room...but very few, if any, had a SmartBoard or projector. Another big difference is that the teachers move from room-to-room, not the students. The idea is that the students will create a very strong bond by having a room all to themselves that they can call their own. It's interesting, but the teachers don't really seem to care for the setup.

When our visit concluded we went back to the hotel for lunch and then it was time for a meeting with a member from the Ministry of Education. The meeting was interesting at times...but, being a meeting held in a hot room right after lunch it was also a bit difficult to stay focused (awake) during the parts where we were told things we had aleady learned. Oh well... :) The most interesting part was a discussion about how Germany and the German school system is working to handle issues revolving around immigration. During the past 5-15 years they have seen an increase in immigrants coming to Germany, particularly from Turkey, and the German people are struggling with this issue. The issue isn't illegal immigration, as all of the immigrants are legal, but it's more about how do they deal with a changing racial demographic within their borders.  Really, very similar to discussions about immigration in the US.

From that meeting we went back to the hotel for a meeting with a professor about Modern Germany. The speaker was great and it was really interesting to hear how a global economic power (Germany) with a fairly strong social safety net and high standard of living has been able to weather the current economic crisis while still providing a multitude of services to its people. Currently Germany's unemployment is just shy of 6%, which is pretty incredible.  Again, I could go into more detail here...but I'll save that for another time.

For dinner we were taken to an Italian restaurant for a change from the very heavy and hearty pork laden meals of the previous days.  Nothing like a pizza with mushrooms, onions, and salami to change up the diet!  After that a few of us went to a bar to watch some of a soccer match (FC Bayern Munich VS AC Milan) on TV with "the locals", which was really enjoyable. 

The trip continues to be an absolute blast, and incredibly educational...ser gut!

Hallo aus Munchen!

We made it, safe and sound.  The flight was really smooth, save for a little turbulence right as we left Canada.  I managed to sleep for a few hours, however now that it's around 3:30 local time my body is still back on D.C. time (6 hours behind) and am starting to feel the drain. Walking out into air that was about 55 and overcast with a little drizzle was actually a welcome relief from the sweltering heat in D.C. Hopefully it clears up as our time goes on, but for now the weather is nice.

Weboarded a private shuttle that took us to the hotel where we dropped our bags, took a few minutes to freshen up and then went to the train station to grab a bite to eat. I had some kind of pork'ish/spam'ish thing on a roll with mustard, and it was fantastic. Pork, pork, pork...miles and miles of it!  After that we hoped back on the bus to get a tour of the city - we have to Munich natives, Alexander and Anetta, that will be showing us around and giving us the inside scoop.  Two of the major sites we saw were the Glockenspiel and the Hofbräuhaus. The Glockenspiel was as uneventful as I remembered it from when I was 16.  Ah well. The Hofbräuhaus, judging by the large number of Asians inside and 16 Americans, is largely a tourist place and not where the locals go. We were assured that tonight we'd go to a local place just around the corner...can't wait! However, a few of us plan to go and get a beer just to say we did.

From there it was more sites, including Schloss Nymphenburg, which is the palace in the background of the picture below.  We have a few hours no to unwind in our hotel room...nap, shower, change. We're meeting at 6:00 to induldge in Bavaria's finest: Pork of all varieties, and beer! Tomorrow we head to a school, which I'm really looking forward to, and after that it's beer tasting at an abbey outside of Munich. I can't imagine that will be in anyway interesting or fun. Not one bit...

Goodbye from D.C.

Well...we made it! Sitting in the terminal at Dulles waiting to board our flight.  The remainder of our orientation today was great...crash course in the German school system (very interesting, more on that later) and the government.  I am so happy to be going on this trip, and so fortunate for the opportunity...I can't say enough great things about the Goethe Institut - we've been treated like royalty, and it has been great!  In a few short hours we'll touch down in Munich, drop our bags and begin a walking tour of Munich. How rad is that? A night's sleep from now and I'll be in Munich! Ciao! (Yea, it's German too...).

A Historical Dream

A few of us got up a little early this morning to battle the heat and lines at the National Archives...all I can say is that it was SO worth it! Seeing the Declaration, Constitution, and Bill of Rights...the real thing right in front of me was incredible. No witty insights or deep thoughts, just pure American Awesomeness!  Highlight of the trip so far, hands down.